Method and apparatus for weaving french-knot fabrics



Sept. 2, 1924. 1,507,392

F. B. MANLEY METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR WEAVING FRENCH KNOT FABRICS FildJan. 19. 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 z /j 70 m INVEN TOR.

$ ATTORNEY.

Sept. 2 1924.

F. B. MANLEY METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR WEAVING FRENCH KNOT FABRICS FiledJan. 19 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEY.

Sept. 2. 1924. R 1,507,392

F. B. MANLEY METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR WEAVING FRENCH KNOT FABRICS FiledJan. 19 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 ATTORNEY.

Patented Sept. 2, 1924.

PATENT OFFICE...

UNITED STATES FRED B. MANLEY, F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR T0TEXTILE DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION OF NEW YORK, N. '55., A CORPORATION OFDELAWARE.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR WEAVING FRENCH-KNO'I FABRICS.

Application filed January 19, 1923. Serial No 613,659.

To all whom. it may concern.

Be it known that I, FRED B. MANLEY, a citizen of the United States,residing at Paterson, in the county of Passaic and State of New Jersey,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods andApparatus for Weaving French-Knot Fabric, of which the following is aspecification.

Fabrics having loose loops formed in certain special warp threads toproduce the effect of French knots on the surface of the fabric haveheretofore been woven by inserting wires beneath the warp strands inwhich the loops are to be formed and then removing the wires. Such amethod is, of course, slow and expensive to operate.

One of the objects of my present invention is to provide a method and anapparatus by which such French knot fabric may be woven entirelyautomatically without special attention on the partof the operator.Other objects of my invention will appear in the following description.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan of a more or less diagrammaticrepresentation of a piece of fabric with the French K110i. etlectproduced thereon;

Fig. 2 is a section of Fig. 1- on the line 22.

Figs. 3, 4-, 5 and 6 represent diagrammatically the different positionsof the several strands when my preferred method is carried out.

Fig. 7 is a more or less diagrammatic illustration of a loom arranged toembody my invention, with the normal and usual. parts of a dobby loomomitted.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged view of the looplifting device.

Fig. 9 is plan view thereof.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged detail of the loop 1 lifter and filling cutter,and

Fig. 11 is a. plan view thereof.

Like reference characters indicate like parts in the several views.

Referring now to the fabric shown in Figs. 1 and 2, it will beunderstood that the main portion of the fabric may have the filling andthe normal warp strands interlaced in any of the usual and desiredmanners, according to the effect to be produced,

since my invention relates merely to the production of the French knoteffect on any kind of fabric.

In the illustrative form shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the normal warp strands10 and 11 are interlocked with the normal filling strands 12, and atpredetermined points across the fabric are special warp strands 13, hereshown as of larger diameter, though, of course, this may be varied asdesired.

The special warp strands 13 .in the illustrative form pass over andunder the filling strands 12 precisely the same as the warp strands 11,except that at predetermined in tervals in the weaving of the fabric, aloop, such as shown at 14, is produced in the special warp strands 13,which loops when pressed down on the surface of the fabric, produce theeffect of French knots. It will be understood, of course, that thespecial warp strands 13 may be grouped in any desired manner across thefabric and may be made up of any kind or color of strand.

In Figs. 3 to 6 I have illustrated diagrammatically the successive stepsaccording to my method ofproducing the fabric illustrated in Figs. 1 and2. The portion at the left represents the normal fell of cloth with thenormal and the special warp strands in tel-laced with the fillingthreads inv the usual manner. After the insertion of the last pick ofthe filling thread, as shown in F ig. 3, the shed is changed so that thewarp strands 11. are carried down and the warp strands 10 remain downwhile the special warp strands 13 remain up, as shown in Fig. i.Thereupon an extra pick of filling is inserted and with the warp strandsin the position shown in Fig. 4, it will be seen that this extra. pickpasses over all of the normal strands 10 and 11 and beneath the specialwarp strands 13. Preferably, when this extra pick 15 is inserted, thefabric is held stationary and furthermore, I prefer to pro duce slack inthe strands 13 so as to hare sufiicient material available to producethe loops 14 in the following steps of the method. After the extra pick15 is inserted, the shed is again formed in the normal manner, with thespecial warp strands 13 extending in the same direction as thenormalstrands 11 and the normal strands 10 forming the opposite portion of theshed. In Fig. 5 a normal pick of filling is being inserted, and Fig. 6shows the position occupied by the strands after serted. As will bepointed out hereafter,

however, the extra pick 15 is used to enlarge the loops 14 and to takeup the slack in the special warp strands 13, which may be provided notonly when the extra pick 15 is being inserted, but both prior andsubsequent to the insertion of this extra pick.

The fabric thus formed is now in a condit-ion from which theFrench knoteffect may be readily completed. For instance, by running a thin wedgealong the surface of the fabric and beneath the extra pick 15, it isobvious that this extra pick will be lifted from the body of the fabricand, by reason of its engagement beneath the loops 14, will draw up suchloops, an enlargement of the loop being accomplished without drawing orpuckering the fabric because of the slack which has been provided in thespecial warp strands 13. It will be obvious that slack may be providedin the special warp strands 13 for some distance. at each side of theextra pick 15, according to the looseness of weave of the fabric, andthat such slack may all be taken up by the raising of the extra pick 15which will draw the special strand l3 lengthwise of the fabric to takeup this slack.

After the extrapick 15 has been raised to produce the loops, it then maybe removed, since its function is merely a mechanical one, and it doesnot enter into the cloth proper. I have found it convenient to removethe extra pick by snipping it at either side of the special warp strands13, and then brushing the fabric to remove the small ends of the extrapick thus out. It will be obvious, however, that any other convenientmethod may be used, or, indeed, if desired, the extra pick may be leftin the fabric.

While I have illustrated the insertion of one extra pick only, it willoften be found in practice desirable to insert a plurality of such extrapicks, particularly where the fill-- ing is alight yarn. By insertingtwo or more extra picks, the necessary strength for raising the loops 14may be obtained.

By holding the fabric stationary while the extra pick 15 is beinginserted, I insure that such extra pick will lie above the sur- "face ofthe fabric, as shown in Fig. 6, the extra pick 15 tending to be locateddirectly above the preceding normal pick'of filling.

'IVith some fabrics, however, it will not be Referring now to Fig. 7, 20is the warp beam for the normal warp strands 10 and 11, which strandspass in the usual manner into the shed and through the reed 21, the fellof the cloth passing over thebreast beam 22 to the take-up beam 23 byway of the usual take-up rolls.

A special warp beam 24 carries the special warp strands 13, the strandspassing over a roller 25 into the shed of the loom.

In order to provide the let-off or slack in the special strands 13, Ihave. illustrated pawls 26, 27 engaging a ratchet 28 attached to theroller 25, these pawls being carried on the end of a lever 29 normallyheld in retracted position by a spring 30 against a stop 31. Obviouslyif the pawls 26, 27 are moved to the left of Fig. 7, the special warpstrands 13 will be drawn from the beam 24 to provide slack in suchstrands. In order to keep the warp strands in proper relation, suitableguides, such as shown at 32, 33, may be provided. Since the slack in thestrands 13-is to be provided one or more times in each repeat,Ipreferably attach the pawls 26, 27 to some apparatus which controls therepeat, as, for instance, a .dobby, which I have illustrateddiagrann'natically at 34, this dobby having a chain with cams androllers added to the chains provided for controlling. the usualinterlacing of the strands, which added chain may operate through acable 35 to swing the lever 29 at the desired times in each repeat toturn the roller 25 to produce the slack in the special warp strands 13.

In order to suspend the operation of the cloth take-up, I connect thedetent 36by means of the cable 37 with a chain on the dobby 34, so thatwhen the extra pick 15 is being inserted, this detent may be lifted outof engagement with the ratchet 38 connected to the take-up beam 23. Whenthis is done, the operating pawl 39, which is reciprocated by theeccentric 40, will continue to work back and forth, but since the detent36 no longer holds. the ratchet 38, it is obvious that. the take-up beam23 will not be advanced to take up the cloth, so that the fell of thecloth will remain stationary as long as desired, and as'controlled bythe dob-by 34.

In order to raise the extra pick 15 to enlarge the loops 14, Ipreferably provide a series of wedge-shaped members 41, which preferablyare held on'the breast beam 22, so as to be adjustable across the beamand to be held in desired position to engagethe extra pick 15 adjacentthe special warp strands 13. Preferably I provide a bracket 42 at eitherend of the breast beam 22 and in this bracket fasten a rectangular bar43, the members: 41 having openings fitting over the bar 43 and screws44 by which the member. 41 may be held in adjusted position on the bar43.

The end of the member 41 is brought down to a fine edge and is held sothat it slides over the face of the fabric as the latter is drawn overthe breast beam 22, the thin edge of the wedge assing beneath the extrapick 15 and raising it as the cloth is drawn over the beam 22, thusenlarging the loops 14 in the fabric.

Preferably I combine with the member 41 a fixed cutting knife 45 setinto a recess in the side of the member 41, the cutting knife itselfbeing wedge-shaped but at a steeper angle than the top of the member 41,so that after the extra pick 15 has been raised to the proper distance,it will engage the cutting edge of the knife 45 and be severed as'thecloth is drawn over the cloth beam. Since as many cutting knives 45are'provided as there are members 41, it will be seen that the extrapick 15 will be cut into many small pieces which may be readily brushedfrom the surface of the fabric.

It will be understood that the device for raising and cutting the extrapick of fillin is merely illustrative and may be varie though the formwhich-I have illustrated is exceedingly simple and effective andobviously involves no attention on the part of the operative after themembers 41 are properly positioned.

The foregoing method of weaving produces a cloth with a smooth back andloops of absolutely uniform height and size.

I claim:

1. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, and then raising the extrapick of filling above the surface of the fell of the cloth to producelarge loops in the special warp strands.

2. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, producing slack in thespecial warp strands at or about the time the extra pick is beinginserted, and then raising the extra pick of filling above the surfaceof the fell of the cloth to produce large loops in the special warpstrands.

' 3. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, and then removing theextra pick of filling after it has passed into the fell of the cloth.

4. The method of weaving fabric, coinprising the interlacing of normaland specialwarp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, and then raising andremoving the extra pick of filling after it has passed int the fell ofthe cloth.

5. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, then raising and cuttingthe extra pick of filling between pairs of the special warp strandsafter the extra pick has passed into thefell of the cloth.

6. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, holding the clothstationary while the extra pick is inserted, and then removing the extrapick of filling after it has passed into the fell of the cloth.

7. The method of weaving fabric comprising the interlacing of normal andspe cial warp strands with filling to produce cloth inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, producing slack in thespecial warp strands at or about the time the extra pick is beinginserted, and then removing the extra pick of filling after it haspassed'into the fell of the cloth.

8. The method of weaving fabric, corn-- prising the interlacing ofnormal and spe cial warp strands with filling to produce cloth,inserting at predetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of.the normal warp strands and beneath the special warp strands, producingslackin the special warp strands at or about the time the extra pick isbeing inserted, and then raising and'rei of filling after after it hasmoving the extra pick of filling after it has passed'into the fell ofthe cloth.

9. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland special warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special warp strands, holding the clothstationary while the extra pick is inserted, producing slack in thespecial warp strands at or about the time the extra pick is beinginserted,. and thenraising and removing the extra pick passed into-thefell of the cloth.

10. The method of weaving fabric, comprising the interlacing of normaland spe cial warp strands with filling to produce cloth, inserting atpredetermined times an extra pick of filling overall of the normal warpstrands and beneath the special Warp strands, holding the clothstationary while the extra pick is inserted, producing slack in thespecial warp strands at or about the time the extra pick is beinginserted, and then raising and cutting the extra pickof filling betweenpairs of the special warp strands after the extra pick has passed intothe fell of the cloth. I

IL The combination with at 100111 having means for weaving cloth byinterlacing normaland special warp strands with filling strands, andmeans for taking up such cloth, of means to lay an extra pick of filling over all of the normal warp strandsfand beneath the special warpstrands at predetermined intervals, and means located be tween two.pairs of special warp strands and adapted to be passed beneath the extrafi ling strand to raise said extra filling strand as the cloth passes tothe takesup of-thelooni, I

'12. The combination with a-loo1n having means for'weaving' cloth byinterlacii'ig nor-i mal and special warpstrands with filling strands,and means for taking up such cloth, of means to lay an extra pick offilling over a l of 'the normal warpstrands and beneath tlie specialWarp strands 'atpredetermined intervals, and means located between twopairs of s ecial warp'stra-nds and adapted to be passer beneath theextra fills ing strand to raise and out said extra filling strand as thecloth passes to the tjakeaup of the loom. V

13. The combination with a loom having means for weaving cloth byinterlacing normal and special warpstrands with filling strands, andmeans for taking up such cloth, of means to lay an extra picket-fillingover all of the normal warp strands and beneath the special warp strandsat predetermined intervals, means to hold the cloth stationary at aboutthe time of the insertion of saidextra pick of filling, and meanstoproduce slack in the special warp strands;

at or about the time the extra pick is being inserted. I

14. The combination with a loom having means for Weaving cloth byinterlacing normal and special warp strands with filling strands, andmeans for I taking up such clot-h, of means to lay an extra pick offillingover all of the normal warp strandsand beneath the special warpstrandsat predetermined intervals, means to holdthe cloth stationary atabout the time of the'insertion of said extra pick of'filling, means toproduce slackin the special warp strandsat or about the timethe extrapick is being inserted, and means located between two pairs of specialwarp strands and-adapted to be passed beneath the extra filling strandto raise said extra filling strand as the clot passes to the take-up ofthe loom. I V 15. The combination with a loom having means for weavingcloth by interlacing nor mal and special warp strands with fillingstrands, and means for taking up such cloth, of means to lay an extrapick of filling over allzof the normal warp strands and beneath thespecial warp strands at predetermined intervals,- meansto hold the clothstationary at about the time of the insertion of said extra pick offilling, means to pro= duce slack in the special warp strands at'orabout the time the extra pick is being in serted, and means locatedbetween two pairs of special warp strands and adapted to bepassed'beneath the extra filling strand to raise and out said extrafilling strand as the cloth passes. to the take-up of the loom;

16. The combination with a loom having means for weaving a fabric andwherein at predetermined times a pick of filling is passed overaplurality of adjacent warp strands and underneath widely separatedslack warp strands, of a fixed 'vedge-like member under which thesurface of the fabric is passed, the member being so located that theextra pick of filling passes overthe member to raise the pick offillingfrom the surface'ofjthe cloth, andistretch the slack warp strands. v

17 The combination with a loomhaving means for weaving a fabric andwherein at predetermined times a pick of filling is passed over aplurality of adjacent warp strands and underneath widely separated slackwarp strands, of a fixed -wedge-like member under which the surface ofthe fabric i passed, the m ber being so In,

cated that the extra pick of filling passes.

over the member to raise the pickof fillin from the surface of the clothand stretc' the-slack'warp strands, saidniember being provided with acutter to cutthe extra pick of filling after it has been raised. p 18.The combination with a loom having means for weaving'a fabricand'wherein at predetermined times a pick of filling is passed over aplurality of adjacent warp strands and underneath widely separated slackWarp strands, of a bar supported above the cloth, and a wedge-likemember connected to the bar and adapted to be held in adjusted positionlengthwise of the bar, said member being so located that the surface ofthe cloth passes underneath the member and the extra pick of fillingpasses over the member to raise the pick of filling from the surface ofthe cloth and stretch the slack warp strands.

19. The combination with a loom having means for weaving a fabric andwherein at predetermined times a pick of filling is passed over aplurality of adjacent warp strands and underneath widely separated slackwarp strands, of abar supported above the cloth, and a wedge-like memberconnected to the bar and adapted to be held in adjusted positionlengthwise of the bar, said member being so located that the surface ofthe cloth passes underneath the member and the extra pick of fillingpasses over the member to raise the pick of filling from the surface ofthe cloth and stretch the slack Warp strands, said member being providedwith a cutter to cut the extra pick of filling after it has been raised.

Signed at New York city, in the county and State of New York, this 17thday of January, 1923.

FRED B. MANLEY.

